LICORICE-ROOT–BASED SKIN CREAM/BALM

LICORICE-ROOT–BASED SKIN CREAM/BALM

Brightening & Soothing Licorice Root Cream / Balm
 A gentle herbal moisturizer designed to fade dark spots, even skin tone, calm irritation, and support a healthy glow. Licorice root extract (rich in glabridin & liquiritin) is the star ingredient, backed by hydrating, barrier-strengthening oils and soothing botanicals.

You can make this in two versions:

  1. Cream (lighter, water-based, fast-absorbing)
  2. Balm (oil-based, no water, most extended shelf life)

Below is the cream recipe, followed by a shorter balm version for those who prefer no preservatives.

 DESCRIPTION OF THE CREAM

A silky, lightweight moisturizer that absorbs quickly, giving the skin a soft, hydrated feel. This cream delivers:

  • noticeable brightening with consistent use
  • reduction of hyperpigmentation & acne marks
  • soothing of redness and irritation
  • support for a more substantial skin barrier

Great for all skin types, dehydrated, sensitive, dull, or spot-prone skin.

 INGREDIENTS & MEASUREMENTS (100 g batch)

Water Phase

  • Distilled water – 60 g
  • Aloe vera juice – 10 g (optional but soothing)

Oil Phase

  • Sweet almond oil – 12 g (or jojoba, grapeseed, sunflower)
  • Shea butter – 5 g (or mango butter for a lighter feel)
  • Emulsifying wax (E-wax NF) – 6 g
  • Cetyl alcohol – 2 g (thickener; optional but improves texture)

Cool-Down Phase (heat-sensitive ingredients)

  • Licorice root extract – 3 g (water-soluble extract or glycerite; if oil-soluble extract, add to oil phase)
  • Vitamin E – 0.5 g (antioxidant for oils)
  • Preservative (e.g., Optiphen, Geogard, Germaben) – 1 g
  • Essential oil (optional) – 0.5 g
     (lavender, chamomile — or omit for sensitive skin)

 HOW TO MAKE THE CREAM (Step-by-Step)

1. Prepare your workspace

  • Sanitize bowls, spoons, blender, and containers
  • Wash hands thoroughly

2. Create the Water Phase

  • In a heat-safe glass, combine:
     ✔ distilled water
     ✔ aloe vera juice
  • Heat to 70–75°C.

3. Create the Oil Phase

  • In another heat-safe container, combine:
     ✔ oils
     ✔ shea butter
     ✔ emulsifying wax
     ✔ cetyl alcohol
  • Heat to 70–75°C until entirely melted.

4. Combine (Emulsification)

  • Slowly pour the hot water phase into the oil phase while blending with:
    • a stick blender OR
    • a hand mixer
  • Blend for 1–2 minutes, rest, then blend again.
  • Continue until the mixture turns creamy and thickens as it cools.

5. Add Cool-Down Phase Ingredients
 When the temperature drops to below 40°C:

  • Add licorice extract
  • Add preservative
  • Add vitamin E
  • Add essential oil (optional)
     Mix well.

6. Jar It

  • Scoop into sanitized amber or opaque containers.
  • Let it rest for 12 hours to stabilize the texture.

 Key Benefits of Licorice Root in the Cream

  • Fades hyperpigmentation (blocks tyrosinase activity)
  • Reduces dark spots, melasma, and acne scars
  • Soothes inflammation, redness, eczema, and sensitivity
  • Brightens dull or uneven skin tone
  • Gentle alternative to hydroquinone & retinoids
  • Antioxidant effects improve skin health over time

 Usage Guide

Use twice daily, morning and night:

  1. Apply a pea-sized amount on clean skin.
  2. Massage in circular motions until absorbed.
  3. Follow with sunscreen during the day — this boosts brightening results.

Patch test first if you have sensitive skin.

 Usage Tips for Best Results

  • For stubborn dark spots, apply a tiny dot directly on the area after moisturizing.
  • Combine with vitamin C in your morning routine for enhanced brightening.
  • Avoid using it with strong acids the first time until the skin adjusts.
  • Keep consistency — results begin to appear in 2–4 weeks, full results in 8–12 weeks.

How to Prevent the Lotion From Going Bad

To make your cream last longer:

  • Always use distilled water, NOT tap water.
  • Use a broad-spectrum preservative (very important).
  • Work with clean & sanitized tools.
  • Don’t dip dirty fingers — use a spatula.
  • Store away from sunlight and heat.
  • Use opaque or amber jars to protect herbal extracts.

Without a preservative, any water-based cream will quickly grow bacteria/mold.

 Shelf Life

With preservative:

  • Room Temperature: 3–6 months
  • Refrigerated: 6–9 months

Without preservative (NOT recommended for water-based cream):

  • Fridge: 1–2 weeks
  • Room Temperature: Spoils within days

 BONUS: Simple Licorice Balm (No Water, No Preservative Needed)

Ingredients (50 g)

  • Beeswax – 10 g
  • Shea or mango butter – 15 g
  • Sweet almond oil – 20 g
  • Licorice oil extract – 5 g
  • Vitamin E – 0.5 g
  • Essential oil (optional) – 0.5 g

Steps

  1. Melt beeswax + butter + oil.
  2. Remove from heat, cool to 45°C.
  3. Add licorice extract + vitamin E + essential oil.
  4. Pour into tins and let solidify.

Shelf Life

6–12 months (no water = longer life).

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